November 19, 2020
The product for well-aging: sun protection
by Leonie Poppe
This time it's about one of my favorite topics, sun protection. Yes, it's probably one of the most discussed topics ever. And rightly so, I think! Especially now that summer is just around the corner, sun protection is getting a real boost in attention. There is hardly a product, especially in skin care, that is as important as the right protection against UV radiation!
Maybe you have already found out a lot about the topic yourself, but I would still like to bring together all the important facts and give you an insight into the current state of research. Because especially on the Internet etc. there are so many things that are simply passed on without being questioned. My motto is as always: make yourself an expert and don't believe everything you are told.
And sun protection, the right filters, from when, what, how, where, this is really as hotly debated as the sun itself. That's why you'll find out here:
- What UV radiation is and what it does to our skin
- How it is responsible for our vitamin D levels and still causes damage
- When and why we need sun protection
- What types of filters are there and how they work
- The connection between sunscreens and our coral reefs
- And how to apply sunscreen correctly
What is UV radiation?
UV radiation is a range of optical radiation and has a wavelength of 100 - 400 nm. This means that it is directly connected to the visible light spectrum. Due to its physical properties, UV radiation can be further divided into 3 groups
UV-A with a wavelength of 400 - 315 nm (long wave)
UV-B with a wavelength of 315 - 280 nm (short wave)
UV-C with a wavelength of 280 - 100 nm (very short wave)
Fig.1
I have created a small overview here to better illustrate how the rays reach us on earth. As you can see in Figure 1, UV-C rays are not particularly relevant to us thanks to the ozone layer. UV-A and UV-B, on the other hand, are. Around 10% of UV-B rays and almost 100% of UV-A rays reach us on earth.
The longer the wavelength of the rays, the less energetic they are. UV-A rays therefore have less energy than UV-B rays. [1]
[Mr]
But what do UV rays actually do to our skin? UV aging and UV burns!
So one thing is certain: UV radiation is without a doubt enemy number 1 when it comes to our skin health. It accelerates skin aging, destroys important structures in our connective tissue and even changes the genetic makeup of our cells. UV-A rays, for example, penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and form the free radicals we are all familiar with! These destroy the supporting collagen in our skin and prevent it from being regenerated. Even the elastin fibers change. It is understandable, then, that the skin's elasticity and flexibility are lost.
I remember all too well the tanned, slightly older ladies and gentlemen on holiday in Italy that I always admired as a child. The wrinkles all over their bodies were usually visible from a distance.
What is even more serious, however, is that these free radicals can also alter the genetic makeup of cells. In addition, the skin also loses its ability to repair itself. This, combined with damage to the DNA, ultimately leads to the development of skin cancer in the worst case scenario. [11]
In summary, UV- A rays cause
- Photo aging and thus with premature wrinkle formation,
- but also pigment disorders,
- Sun allergy
- and skin cancer
While UV- B rays are limited to the outer layers of our skin and, above all,
- Sunburn , hyperpigmentation ,
- allergic reaction
- and also cause skin cancer
The damage caused by UV-B rays is much more obvious than that caused by UV-A rays. This does not make them any less dangerous. Quite the opposite.
Vitamin D production in the skin
But UV radiation also has its good sides. As we all know by now, it helps our skin to produce a vitamin that is very important for us: Vitamin D.
Vitamin D is so essential for us because it significantly influences the calcium and phosphate balance in the body and thus affects bone mineralization. Apart from that, it also has a hand in the intestines, muscle function and our immune system. (12) The physiology of our skin is also inextricably linked to the production and activity of vitamin D. (13)
So how does UV radiation do this?
We have a kind of precursor of vitamin D in our skin, the so-called provitamin D3 (also known as 7-dehydrocholesterol for those who are interested) which we produce ourselves in our liver. Pretty well actually. The UV-B rays then manage to split this molecule using their energy and cholecalciferol is created, which we know as vitamin D3. [12] This process is of course much more complex and is far from over. But the details would go beyond the scope of this article and are not really related to the topic of sun protection.
It is important to know that vitamin D is the only vitamin that we get from food, but our body can also produce it itself!
Of course the question arises: Does sun protection affect my vitamin D levels?
Yes and no.
Previous studies have shown that applying sunscreen can affect the production of vitamin D in the skin, but the conditions of these studies were not adapted to normal conditions. For example, artificial UV light was used, which differs in its composition from terrestrial sunlight.
[Mr]
In addition, several field trials and observational studies have failed to confirm a link between sunscreen use and declining vitamin D levels. [4][5]
Aside from that, we don't use UV protection for fun, we use it to protect ourselves from skin cancer. This type of prevention is therefore extremely important! The fear of a vitamin D deficiency should definitely not stop us from using sunscreen. The benefit of protection and prevention is greater than the suspicion of vitamin D deficiency.
Of course, anyone who avoids the sun completely or has to avoid it, wears long clothing and rarely leaves the house can easily fall into this situation.
That's why it's advisable to keep an eye on your vitamin D levels. If you think you might be suffering from a deficiency, it's best to have your blood tested. Vitamin D can be easily supplied to the body through dietary supplements.
Fig. 2
And how is an ideal sun protection constructed?
Once it is clear that we need sun protection, it is equally important to find and, in our case, create the right sunscreen.
From the information we have gone through so far, you can definitely tell that sunscreen should definitely protect against UV-A and UV-B rays. It should also be photostable, water and sweat resistant and, in my opinion, have at least an SPF of 30. I will explain why later. And of course, it should not endanger your own health (not trigger allergies) and should not pollute our environment.
In order to address these topics in more detail, I will briefly explain the differences between the various filter systems!
UV filters - organic and inorganic
Most of the time, the filters in sunscreens are divided into “chemical = bad and mineral or physical = good” filters.
Unfortunately, that is not entirely correct. Because if we take a closer look at the filters, they are actually all “chemical”. Chemistry is a science that deals with the relationships between substances, in other words with everything that surrounds us. :)
And that doesn't exclude minerals either. Unfortunately, the word "chemistry" has a rather unpleasant connotation and is therefore often used to make processes, things and substances look worse than they actually do.
This also means that the ingredients referred to as "chemical filters" are often thrown together and labelled "bad". Of course, there are reasons for this that we should not ignore. Hormone activity and its contribution to the death of our coral reefs. Nevertheless, it still makes sense to take a closer look at the individual substances and not to generalise!
Therefore, dividing the filters into organic and inorganic makes more sense!
Everything organic, i.e. plants, animals and of course us humans, consists of molecules based on carbon. While inorganic substances consist of mineral, i.e. inorganic atoms such as titanium and zinc.
[Mr]
What organic/chemical filters are there and how do they work?
This group of filters includes octinoxate (UV-B), salicylates (UV-B) and benzophenones (UV-A). The UV radiation is absorbed by these molecules in the filter. The incoming energy is released via mechanisms such as fluorescence, photoreactions or redistribution of energy within the molecule.
Some members of this group are said to have negative effects on our bodies, but also on the environment. Filters such as oxybenzone and octinoxate in particular are causing concern about bleaching coral reefs and decimating algae, which produce much of the oxygen we breathe. Hawaii will ban the use of such sunscreen filters in January 2021 in response to the real or perceived threat. [6]
Are “chemical” filters hormonally active?
Yes, these substances are also said to have an effect on our sensitive hormone system. But here too, there is hardly any transferable, watertight data to prove this. Tests were carried out on individual cells, which cannot be transferred one-to-one to the complex human body.
But as you can see, there is definitely a reason to take a closer look here and wait and see what happens with UV filters. Because even if these ingredients are only potentially allergenic and have a hormonal effect, we would rather do without them.
Another reason why we have decided to use only mineral filters is that these are the only ones permitted in natural cosmetics anyway. But the general evidence regarding the compatibility of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide with humans, animals and the environment also speaks in favor of the more natural variant. [14] [15]
Of course, there are critical voices here too and the topic of nanoparticles is hotly debated.
What inorganic/mineral filters are there? And how do they work?
Currently, only two representatives are permitted in which the inorganic atoms form a bond with oxygen (oxygen oxide):
Zinc oxide (INCI Zinc Oxide) and titanium dioxide (INCI Titanium Dioxide).
Both filters are whitish powders that are difficult to dissolve and spread in water. This is where the “whitening effect” that we are all familiar with comes from, which unfortunately comes with sunscreens with these filters. For a long time it was claimed that these types of filters tend to reflect and scatter the sun's rays. Unlike their organic counterparts, which do this by absorption. However, a study from 2016 showed that mineral filters also absorb the majority of UV rays. [9]
In addition, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide molecules do not break down, thus causing fewer allergic reactions and are generally more tolerable.
Another reason for us to choose this filter variant for our sunscreen.
And what about these nanoparticles?
I also looked for current studies here. I came across information from last year. This study showed that nanoparticles of titanium dioxide were found in the human body after applying a sunscreen. However, the conditions here were not necessarily typical. The sunscreen was applied for 3 days in a row and not washed off. Nevertheless, more detailed research is needed in the future. [8]
[Mr]
That's why we at junglück avoid nanoparticles. You won't find any in our products, including the sunscreen!
If you're wondering why we don't have a day cream with SPF, then take a look at the blog article about our day and night cream . Sophia explains why there! :)
[Mr]
When does sun protection make sense?
Basically, this is one of the most important points, along with the “how”. Because you should actually apply sunscreen every day - summer and winter.
Yes, it is true that UV radiation decreases in winter, but we are still exposed to it often and for long enough, especially on our faces.
The intensity of UV radiation on the earth's surface depends on various factors and should never be underestimated:
- Latitude - the closer to the equator the more intense
- Season and time of day - stronger in summer than in winter and stronger at midday than in the morning and evening (logical)
- Weather - closed cloud cover blocks up to 90% of the rays but light cloud cover can even increase them
- Shadow - reduces radiation only by about 30%
- Altitude - per 1000 meters altitude approx. 10% more radiation
- Environment - Snow, sand and water reflect and increase the intensity. [1]
As you can see, UV radiation is everywhere and always present. If you want to protect your skin from damage, aging and disease, a sufficient sun protection factor (SPF) is essential!
So sunscreen really is one of the best anti-aging weapons you can imagine and in my opinion belongs in every skincare routine!
If you are still not sure whether you should use sun protection, you can also rely on the UV index. It describes the daily peak of UV radiation that reaches the earth in a certain region on a given day. You can find the daily UV index for Germany here and for other countries here.
And at an index of 3 or higher, sunscreen is recommended.
How do I apply sunscreen correctly?
Almost more important than a high sun protection factor is the HOW!
Because you need a certain amount of sunscreen to actually get the stated UV protection.
The amount is often given in tablespoons and teaspoons, which I personally find very practical because it is easier to visualize. Who has a pair of scales with them all the time to weigh out the 1.2 g for their face?
Basically, you need at least one tablespoon of sunscreen for each large part of your body - chest, stomach, arms and legs. Yep, that's a lot. For your face, add another half teaspoon.
It is often recommended to apply the cream in layers so that the product has time to be absorbed gradually and does not stick all of it to the body at once. This can often be very unpleasant, especially with mineral filters.
Which SPF should I use?
Regarding the SPF, I already mentioned that anything below 30 is hardly useful.
But of course that depends on how conscientiously you apply sunscreen. If you use less sunscreen, the protection will obviously be less. This means that a higher SPF will of course be a little more effective than if it is already low.
But your skin type is also important. Do you have very light skin and get sunburned easily? Then you will of course need stronger sun protection than someone who already has a darker skin tone.
The melanin in our skin is responsible for this. If our skin tans from the sun, this is a protective mechanism of the melanocytes to deal with damage that has already occurred. If you are interested in this topic in more detail, I would be happy to write another article on the subject of tanning and the different skin types.
[Mr]
Finally...
Finally, I would just like to remind you once again how important it is to protect your skin from UV radiation. Please avoid going to the solarium and baking in the midday sun on the beach. As nice as it is to come back from vacation tanned, UV rays are damaging in the long term and the effects are usually only felt years later, even if you don't notice them at the time. In addition, sunscreens that are applied correctly allow some UVB rays to reach your skin and it will still tan, albeit more slowly but more sustainably. ;) Enjoy the summer to the fullest and take care of yourself!
My absolute favorite tip for summer: Our aloe vera gel as an after-sun wellness treatment for your skin! It cools wonderfully and gives the skin back important nutrients that it loses through the sun.
If you have any questions or suggestions for me, please feel free to send me an email. I look forward to hearing from you!
And here you can go directly to our selection of sun protection.
Take care.
[Mr]
References
[1] https://www.bfs.de , accessed 28.05.2020
[2] https://www.who.int/news-room/qa-detail/ultraviolet-(uv)-index
[3] https://www.dwd.de/DE/leistungen/gefahrenindizesuvi/gefahrenindexuvi.html
[4] RE Neale et al. al., The Effect of Sunscreen on Vitamin D: A Review . Br J Dermatol 2019 Nov;181(5):907-915
[5] Passeron T, Bouillon R, Callender V, et al. Sunscreen photoprotection and vitamin D status . J Dermatol . 2019;181(5):916‐931. doi:10.1111/bjd.17992
[6] Raffa RB, Pergolizzi JV Jr, Taylor R Jr, Kitzen JM; NEMA Research Group. Sunscreen bans: Coral reefs and skin cancer. J Clin Pharm Ther. 2019;44(1):134‐139. doi:10.1111/jcpt.12778
[7] McSweeney PC. The safety of nanoparticles in sunscreens: An update for general practice. Aust Fam Physician . 2016;45(6):397‐399.
[8] Pelclova D, Navratil T, Kacerova T, et al. NanoTiO2 Sunscreen Does Not Prevent Systemic Oxidative Stress Caused by UV Radiation and a Minor Amount of NanoTiO2 is Absorbed in Humans. Nanomaterials (Basel) . 2019;9(6):888. Published 2019 Jun 17. doi:10.3390/nano9060888
[9] Cole C, Shyr T, Ou-Yang H. Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed . 2016;32(1):5‐10. doi:10.1111/phpp.12214
[10] http://www.dermcoll.edu.au/atoz/sun-protection-sunscreens/
[11] Shanbhag S, Nayak A, Narayan R, Nayak UY. Anti-aging and sunscreens: paradigm shift in cosmetics . Adv Pharm Bull . 2019;9(3):348‐359. doi:10.15171/apb.2019.042
[12] https://www.amboss.com/de/wissen/Vitamine read 29.05.2020
[13] Piotrowska A, Wierzbicka J, Żmijewski MA. Vitamin D in the skin physiology and pathology. Acta Biochim Pol . 2016;63(1):17‐29. doi:10.18388/abp.2015_1104
[14] Kim KB, Kim YW, Lim SK, et al. Risk assessment of zinc oxide, a cosmetic ingredient used as a UV filter in sunscreens . J Toxicol Environ Health B Crit Rev . 2017;20(3):155‐182. doi:10.1080/10937404.2017.1290516
[15] https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/ read 28.05.2020