September 6, 2021
Hyaluronic acid – an acid for the skin?
by Mara Hageneier
We usually associate acids with highly corrosive liquids that we would rather avoid coming into contact with our skin. So you wouldn't think that hyaluronic acid is the "holy grail" of skin care. But that's a false first impression. Hyaluronic acid is a relatively weak, organic acid that is not harmful to skin, which is also slightly acidic - on the contrary. In this article, you'll find out exactly what this active ingredient is and why it lives up to its image.
The first step is to get to know hyaluronic acid and its chemical structure
If we really want to get to know hyaluronic acid, we should take a closer look at its chemical structure. It quickly becomes clear that the acid is actually not that unpleasant: hyaluronic acid can be imagined as a long string of pearls, in which units of two sugar molecules are strung together. For the scientists among us: hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide and consists of a long chain of repeating disaccharide building blocks.
A hyaluronic acid chain can consist of up to 50,000 of these building blocks. The individual chains attract each other and form a tight network. Like a kind of sponge, hyaluronic acid is able to bind and store large amounts of water.
Hyaluronic acid - A natural component in our body
The body takes advantage of this property by producing hyaluronic acid itself and using it where a lot of water needs to be retained. For example, in the vitreous humor of the eye, which consists almost exclusively of water and 2% hyaluronic acid.
Hyaluronic acid also plays an important role for our joints: together with the water stored in it, it is an excellent lubricant and shock absorber.
The largest part, however, is found in the spaces between the cells in the skin. It forms a gel-like matrix in the dermis, in which the collagen fibers and fibroblasts are embedded. Together with these proteins, hyaluronic acid is responsible for the structure and elasticity of the skin. In the skin, hyaluronic acid is formed from glucose by very specific cells with very specific proteins. An amazing machinery that takes place in our body every day.
Hyaluronic acid supplies our skin with moisture right down to the deeper layers and stores the water in so-called moisture depots - the skin therefore appears plump and wrinkle-free. By optimally supplying the skin with moisture, the cells can be supplied with important nutrients and waste products can be efficiently removed. Hyaluronic acid has an anti-inflammatory effect and prevents blemishes. But that's not all: the depots also act as a natural skin shield and make the skin resistant to external influences such as UV radiation, environmental toxins or mechanical stimuli. It's quite an avalanche that hyaluronic acid sets in motion.
Over time, however, the body's natural hyaluronic acid production decreases: women up to 45 still have a concentration of around 0.03%, while a 60-year-old woman only has 0.015%. As the concentration drops, the moisture content of the skin also decreases. Normally, our healthy, intact cornea has a water content of around 20%. However, if it drops below 10%, the skin becomes dry and irritated. The skin becomes flabby and the first wrinkles form. In younger people, the body's own hyaluronic acid production can also decrease slightly due to stress or environmental influences.
Hyaluronic acid from the outside - The moisturizing effect
So it's a sensible idea to give our skin a little help and care for it with hyaluronic acid. When applied to the skin, hyaluronic acid is absorbed into the uppermost cell layers and the skin is thus supplied with moisture. The skin regains volume, it appears firmer and wrinkles are reduced. This effect can even be measured: the scientific term for the amount of water that evaporates through the skin is the so-called transepidermal water loss. The smaller this value, the less water is lost. Sounds logical and achieves measurable results. A study by the Clinic and Polyclinic for Dermatology and Allergology at the Ludwig Maximilian University in Munich was able to prove the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid. The study found that the use of a 0.1 percent hyaluronic cream achieved a significant improvement in skin moisture and general suppleness compared to a placebo. But not all hyaluronic acids are the same. I'll explain the difference in the next section.
By the way, hyaluronic acid is a great moisturizer not only for the skin but also for the hair. In our Hairline care We have therefore used it quite deliberately – wavy and curly hair in particular will be particularly pleased with it!
Not all hyaluronic acids are the same - the size determines the effect
Many studies indicate that the effect of topical applications of hyaluronic acid depends on the size of the fragments. Not all hyaluronic acids are the same. They are classified as either high-molecular or low-molecular hyaluronic acids, which differ in their molecular size. The classification is based on the molecular mass, which is given in the unit “Dalton” or “Kilodalton”.
While hyaluronic acid in the body is usually present as a long-chain compound with a high molecular mass, smaller fragments are used in cosmetics.
High molecular hyaluronic acid - lies on the skin
High molecular weight hyaluronic acid consists of molecules with a size of 1500 kDa or more. Although they cannot penetrate the skin barrier, they form a thin film on the skin. This prevents the skin's own water from evaporating too quickly and thus increases the skin's hydration.
Unfortunately, the film is washed off relatively quickly, so it should be reapplied daily.
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid - absorbs into the skin
This hyaluronic acid consists of molecules measuring 50 kD and smaller. Its moisture-binding properties are less pronounced. However, since it can penetrate deeper into the epidermis, moisture is retained for a longer period of time and the skin is effectively moisturized.
Oligo-hyaluronic acid - penetrates deepest into the skin
This type uses extremely short-chain molecules. These are much smaller and can penetrate even deeper into the skin. While the larger molecules remain in the stratum corneum, the presence of the smallest molecules has been proven in the epidermis.
The effect of hyaluronic acid of different molecular masses was also investigated in a study conducted by the Ludwig Maximilian University of Munich. The use of creams with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid was proven to lead to a significant reduction in the depth of wrinkles, an effect that can be explained by the deeper penetration ability of the smaller molecules.
The effect of hyaluronic acid on the skin - an overview
- increases the moisture content of the skin
- counteracts skin aging by delaying the formation of wrinkles
- can reduce the depth of existing wrinkles
- improves skin elasticity
- Reduces the feeling of tension in the skin in various skin diseases such as eczema or neurodermatitis
- works against skin redness and burns
This means that hyaluronic acid is literally floating in the cosmetics heaven and certainly lives up to its standing. But caution is still advised!
Transparency in the cosmetics world - The not so dark side
With all this flattery, you might become a little skeptical. And there is indeed a small fly in the ointment - our beloved hyaluronic acid is not without its downsides. In principle, hyaluronic acid is very well tolerated, after all, it occurs naturally in our skin and in many organs. Its use for humans therefore seems ideal in principle. Nevertheless, you should take a closer look at it and not just grab it from the shelf at random.
Molecules with a molecular weight of 5 kD or more can reach the deeper layers of the skin. This is positive in itself, as this is how the products can have the best effect. However, if the molecules also carry unwanted ingredients from cosmetics or bacteria from the surface of the skin into the cells, inflammation and skin irritation can be promoted. However, if the molecules are chosen in the right size, this flaw can easily be avoided.
It is therefore advisable to sharpen your eyes a little and pay a little attention to the list of ingredients. Unfortunately, the INCI name does not make it clear which variant it is. In the cosmetic ingredients, the so-called INCI, all variants are called Sodium Hyaluronate. If you want to know more, it is best to ask the manufacturer directly. It is also worth asking where the miracle molecule actually comes from. Because the exact production is not clear from the INCI name either. I will explain the differences in this in the next section.
Hyaluronic acid - where do you actually come from?
By now we should have an idea why hyaluronic acid is no longer considered the SECRET weapon among active ingredients. Hyaluronic acid can now be found as an ingredient in cosmetic products almost everywhere. Demand has increased significantly since its discovery. Who would want to do without this miracle substance? But as is so often the case, happiness doesn't just fall into your lap. You have to put in a little effort to be able to enjoy the benefits of hyaluronic acid.
In order to meet the increasing demand, hyaluronic acid must be produced in large quantities. Two different processes are used today. The cheaper version is obtained from natural sources, namely from the combs of roosters. However, the hyaluronic acid obtained in this way can still be contaminated with proteins from these animals. Some people react to these proteins with allergic reactions, even allergic shock. In addition, all products of animal origin also carry a certain risk of transmitting pathogens to humans. Biotechnological production provided a way out of this dilemma. Hyaluronic acid is obtained through bacterial fermentation: the bacteria are modified in such a way that they biochemically synthesize hyaluronic acid in a highly pure form and quality. Our hyaluronic molecules are also obtained from peptones in wheat and molasses by fermentation with bacteria. This means that the products do not contain any allergens, pesticides or nanomaterials. They do not come into contact with raw materials or products from animal sources.
Mix & Match - Know how!
The science behind hyaluronic acid doesn't seem to be that simple, and if my post has left you unsure or confused so far, then you can relax a little now. In our hyaluronic concentrate, we have made sure to find the optimal combination of all hyaluronic acid variants so that your skin is provided with an all-round package. Long-chain (2200 kDa), medium-chain (1500 kDa) and short-chain (30 kDa) hyaluronic acids are on the ingredients list in our recipe - and all in a concentration of 1.4%. This way, you benefit from both short-term and long-term success without putting strain on your skin with possible side effects. The concentrate is ideal as a basic morning care product. If you want to give your skin a little more moisture and prepare it optimally for the day, I also recommend our hyaluronic day cream. Especially if you have dry skin, you shouldn't do without the low-molecular hyaluronic acid it contains in a concentration of 0.5%.
Even in the evening after confronting endless environmental influences, you should reward your protective skin barrier with a little attention. Our hyaluronic night cream with 0.3% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid regenerates and gives new energy for the next day.
Since all products are formulated on a water-based basis, you don't run the risk of sealing your skin with a greasy film. In addition to aloe vera, you give your skin a real moisture boost and get the protective and strengthening metabolic pathways rolling.
You can combine hyaluronic acid with almost any other active ingredient. It works particularly well with retinal or fruit acids - they absorb moisture deep down and make the skin glow.
It is important to be clear that the effect of hyaluronic acid is purely cosmetic in nature and does not prevent skin aging. Unfortunately, this method does not renew the aged skin, it is only temporarily plumped up. Regular use of hyaluronic acid is therefore necessary to keep the skin firm.
“Curious about our hyaluronic products?”
From concentrate to cream – you can find them all here at a glance!
Hyaluron boost from within - does nutritional supplementation make sense?
Now it's not just the cosmetics industry that has jumped on the hyaluronic acid bandwagon. Since beauty is a lucrative market, the offerings also focus on hyaluronic acid as a dietary supplement, whether in the form of capsules, powders, tablets and drinks. Such products are often advertised as having a positive effect on the skin. However, it is unclear exactly how the metabolism of hyaluronic acid works in the body in this way.
It is extremely doubtful whether hyaluronic acid taken orally as a dietary supplement will survive digestion in the gastrointestinal tract and passage through the liver and reach the folds in the skin or the hair. According to everything we know about the anatomy and physiology of the digestive tract, hyaluronic acid is either excreted as an indigestible polysaccharide or broken down by bacteria into short-chain fatty acids. This means that they are available to the body as fatty acids, but not as hyaluronic acid. Against this background, it currently seems extremely unlikely that hyaluronic acid intake through food would have a positive effect on the body.
In contrast to topically applied hyaluronic acid, i.e. hyaluronic products applied to the skin, studies are extremely rare. Advertising claims such as "for young skin" or "for good skin moisture" have been judged by the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) to be scientifically unproven. It is therefore definitely worth not trusting the advertising industry without exception.
Hyaluronic acid - our very own water magnet
After all the science, it's time to give hyaluronic acid the applause it deserves. With its impressive effectiveness, it is absolutely in the fast lane and leaves many other active ingredients in the slipstream. As a substance produced naturally in the body, almost everyone can tolerate it and even sensitive skin can benefit from its properties. And to be honest - we're happy to accept the little pitfalls. Because if you look long enough, you'll almost always find a fly in the ointment. If you make sure you use it regularly and choose the right products, you won't want to do without your hyaluronic acid routine in the bathroom.
Sources
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https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17177600/
https://www.meduni.com/scientific-studies-on-the-effects-of-hyaluronic-acid/
https://www.verbraucherzentrale.de/wissen/lebensmittel/nahrungsergaenzungsmittel/ist-hyaluronsaeure-gut-fuer-haut-und-gelenke-28509
https://www.springermedizin.de/
Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol . 2011;10(9):990-1000.