Well-aging myths: active ingredients, sun protection & Co.

Mature skin requires more intensive care: more moisture, balanced lipids and active ingredients that boost collagen production and strengthen the skin barrier. There are many myths in skin care, especially when it comes to caring for mature skin. And unfortunately, this is also associated with a lot of stigma.
Wrinkles, pigment spots, sagging skin... Signs of skin aging are often experienced as small (or even larger) moments of shock when you first notice them when you look in the mirror. We get annoyed about something that happens completely naturally, for some sooner, for others later. We often perceive the visibility of aging as a problem and are immediately attracted to tubes and jars with the promise of "anti-aging". And this despite the fact that nothing in this world can really prevent skin aging. And we feel bad because it seems that with every birthday we are supposed to collect more "anti" in the bathroom cabinet, which reminds us every morning and every evening how we should feel with our wrinkles, pigment spots and sagging skin.

Before we get into the cosmetic myths surrounding the topic of aging, I would like to start with what is probably the most important “myth”:

Myth: “Signs of skin aging are unsightly and must be stopped.”

BULLSHIT (Sorry, not sorry). Getting older and noticing it in your face and body is 100% normal and it affects all of us differently. But: It affects all of us. The body changes visually over the course of a lifetime. This is also reflected in the skin.
The main reason for caring for mature skin should be to keep our largest organ healthy and to ensure that it can perform its natural functions for as long as possible. For example, it is about stabilizing the collagen structure in order to keep the skin barrier fit, and adding lipids and moisture in order to store them. It is about being better equipped to deal with external environmental influences. For us, this is not anti-aging, but well-aging, i.e. the good and healthy way of getting older. Because: well-cared-for skin should always be important.

Myth: “Retinol / Retinal is only for mature skin.”

Retinoids are primarily known because they are very effective and well-researched ingredients in the care of mature skin. But they do not only have advantages for mature or maturing skin. Skin that is prone to blemishes also benefits greatly from the regulating effect on sebum production, which is particularly good for people with oily skin and even acne.

By promoting cell renewal and stimulating collagen production, retinol can help make skin look smoother, fresher and more even, even from the mid-20s onwards. In fact, our skin begins to lose its elasticity and retain less moisture in the skin from the mid-20s onwards. This is because the enzyme collagenase, which inhibits collagen synthesis, becomes active at this time, while at the same time collagen production slowly decreases.
A customized, dosed care product with retinal, such as in our Retinal Sensitive Serum or our Retinal Cream, helps the skin to retain its firmness and elasticity over the years, as it stimulates collagen synthesis and inhibits this nasty enzyme. This means that the collagen structure remains stable for longer and moisture can be stored better.

Myth: “Sensitive skin cannot tolerate retinoids”

Wrong. Retinal in particular is basically suitable for every skin type. This is because it is closest to retinoic acid in the retinoid conversion chain. In the skin, retinyl esters, such as retinyl palmitate, first become retinol, then retinal and then retinoic acid.

However, it always depends on the concentration and the correct application. If you have very sensitive skin, you should start with the mildest dosage possible. Once the skin has become somewhat accustomed to the active ingredient, the frequency of application can be gradually increased, and even the concentration.

Myth: Skin care products stop working after a certain time because the skin gets used to them

That's not true. The skin needs about four weeks to get used to new products and active ingredients and then be able to "process" them. Initially, the skin may even worsen before it gets used to the active ingredient.
The skin loves routines – just like us humans.
A product that is used over a longer period of time can be absorbed and "utilized" much better by the skin. This is why skin care products that have been used for a long time actually work much better.
When it comes to the dosage of active ingredients, you can also increase the dose over time if you notice that your skin tolerates the product well, but you may want a stronger effect.

Myth: “Retinoids make the skin thinner”

This is actually completely wrong! Retinoids stimulate skin renewal and remove dead cells from the outer layer of skin more quickly. This is why many people believe that the skin can become thinner and more sensitive in the long term. But the exact opposite is the case: retinoids actually stimulate collagen production. This means a more stable skin structure and more even and plumper skin.

Myth: “Retinoids work by exfoliating the skin”

Here we follow up on the previous myth. And say: Not true again. Retinoids do not have an exfoliating effect. Peeling is more of a side effect of the skin's irritation process. Unlike peelings, retinoids do not break the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. However, due to the increased cell renewal, fresh skin cells come to the surface more quickly - which can actually be confused with a peeling effect, but really isn't one.

Myth: “Retinol should not be used in summer”

Retinoids can certainly be used in summer. However, they are very demanding active ingredients: They are UV-sensitive and their effectiveness is significantly impaired by light. This is why these products are more suitable for the evening routine, as our skin regenerates at night. Since retinoids stimulate cell renewal, among other things, young cells reach the surface of the skin more quickly. This is why you should always use sunscreen with the highest possible sun protection factor during the day. And all of this applies in both summer and winter.

Myth: “Retinal products do not lighten hyperpigmentation because they make the skin more sensitive to light”

To build on what we have just learned: products that contain retinal make the skin more sensitive to light, which is why we should diligently use sunscreen every morning. Products based on vitamin A stimulate cell renewal in the skin by stimulating the production of new skin cells. This process then helps to remove dead skin cells more quickly, which can lead to a more even skin tone. Melanin is the pigment responsible for skin color. Retinoids can therefore inhibit melanin production, which helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Retinoids also promote collagen production by positively influencing collagen synthesis, which leads to improved skin structure and elasticity. So retinol can actually help to improve the appearance of pigment spots.

Myth: “Only prescription tretinoin really works”

To explain: Tretinoin, or retinoic acid, is a potent and well-researched form of vitamin A with medicinal effects and therefore requires a prescription. But over-the-counter derivatives such as retinal and retinol also have advantages. Since they are also converted into tretinoin in the skin, they are widely used in skin care. But why not just use tretinoin? One advantage of derivatives is that they are generally more stable and better tolerated. This means they cause fewer side effects such as dryness, redness or flaking. From a biochemical point of view, you can achieve the same effect with vitamin A derivatives in cosmetics - it just takes a little longer.

Well-aging needs the right care and the right attitude

Skin care doesn't have to be complicated. And it certainly doesn't have to cause problems that don't actually exist. Wrinkles and sagging skin are completely normal as we get older. And somehow it's also a credit to us that life experiences and circumstances eventually make themselves felt on our skin. Perhaps we can learn to celebrate the fact that we are seeing our age. And face getting older more relaxed, without any shame or pressure to prevent it. By calling our products "well-aging" we clearly stand for more serenity - especially when it comes to skin care.


Sources:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28853960/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37375394/
https://www.livivo.de/doc/M37615835