January 26, 2021
AHA, BHA, PHA - Effects and use of hydroxy acids
by Lena Severin
PHA, BHA, AHA – with so many similar-sounding abbreviations, it's time for an article that explains the differences and benefits of the various hydroxy acids. And if you've also stumbled across this term – don't worry, we'll start at the very beginning with the basics!
- Hydroxy acid – what is it?
- AHA, BHA, PHA - What should I pay attention to when using them?
- PHA, AHA or BHA - differences and which is right for me?
- AHA, BHA, PHA - tips for use
1. Hydroxy acid – what is it?
If you spend a lot of time with skincare, you probably already know what the abbreviations AHA, BHA and PHA stand for, or have at least heard of them. I'll repeat a few facts here for the sake of completeness: PHA stands for polyhydroxy acid. It is the mildest variant of the three hydroxy acids, which is why it is suitable for daily use in the form of our facial toner, even on sensitive skin. BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acid, better known as salicylic acid. We'll explain the difference here and which product you should use for which purposes later in the text.
2. AHA, BHA, PHA - What should I pay attention to when using them?
Acetylsalicylic acid allergy
If you are allergic to acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin), you should generally avoid products that contain salicylic acid. As the name suggests, these two substances are closely related and can have unpleasant side effects. You should be aware of this.
Hydroxy acids in the care routine
Our BHA, AHA and PHA products are best used in the evening, as they are most effective during the skin's nightly regeneration phase. What's great about this leave-on peeling? You can simply continue the steps of your personal care routine after you have applied the BHA peeling. However, there are a few small things to note:
- Allow the AHA, BHA and PHA to absorb well before applying a cream, oil or serum.
- Avoid the eye area when applying. For the PHA facial toner, we recommend that you first spray it onto a cotton pad and then spread it on your face.
- If you use the niacinamide serum, do not apply it together with the BHA or AHA peeling in the same routine. This is because niacinamide and the BHA, as well as the AHA peeling, react together to form nicotinic acid, which can have an irritating effect and even cause a reddish flush. However, if you separate the products in time, you don't have to worry about this reaction! You can apply the BHA peeling in the evening and the niacinamide serum in the morning. Incidentally, this division is particularly good for balancing out impure or oily skin and tackling pimples, blackheads, etc.
- If you want to use retinal products or are already using them, it is important to give your skin enough time to get used to the new BHA peeling. So slowly introduce it into your routine by only using it 1-2 evenings a week at first and keep an eye on your skin. If it responds well, you can slowly increase the use. Incidentally, this principle is recommended for any product for sensitive skin, especially those that contain active ingredients.
BHA, PHA and Rosacea & Neurodermatitis
Especially with particularly sensitive skin, such as that found in people with neurodermatitis and rosacea, you should always be cautious when trying out new products. And if the word peeling or acid appears in a product name, it is naturally a little off-putting. But in the case of BHA and PHA, that doesn't necessarily have to be true. BHA is very mild and particularly well tolerated. And if that is a little too intense for you, you can switch to PHA - even gentler on the skin and therefore worth a try even for sensitive skin.
Of course, you should still be careful when using them. If you have skin conditions, we generally recommend that you consult your doctor before using new products. If you get the go-ahead for the BHA peeling or the PHA facial toner, you should first try it on one area and observe how your skin reacts after the first application. If you tolerate it well, you can start with 1-2 evenings a week and then gradually increase over the next few weeks to a maximum of every other evening. Especially with sensitive skin, it is particularly important to introduce the products slowly so that the skin is not overwhelmed and reacts with redness, pimples or even a rash.
pregnancy and breast feeding period
We do not recommend using our hydroxy acids during pregnancy or breastfeeding. If you want to know how to best care for your skin during pregnancy, I recommend this article .
3. AHA, BHA or PHA - differences and which is right for me?
Generally speaking, customers with oily, blemished and acne-prone skin should use BHA. It clears clogged pores and counteracts inflammation. Due to its anti-inflammatory effect, BHA is also very suitable for customers with rosacea.
If you have dry or mature skin, you should prefer the AHA peeling. AHAs moisturize the skin well and also care for wrinkles and pigment spots.
PHA, on the other hand, is particularly recommended for sensitive and dehydrated skin. As a facial toner, it is suitable for daily use and even very sensitive skin benefits from its moisturizing, protective and gently exfoliating effect.
Here are the differences again at a glance:
4. AHA, BHA, PHA- Tips for use
It is important for all three products to apply them after a thorough and gentle facial cleansing. For a mild but thorough cleansing, we have various products , from cleansing oil to gel.
Once your face is free of dirt and deposits, you can use the BHA or AHA peeling or the PHA facial toner. To do this, put a few drops of the peeling into your cupped (washed) hand, rub your hands together and apply a thin layer of the peeling to your face and/or décolleté. Avoid the eye area. For the PHA facial toner, spray a few pumps onto a cotton pad and gently apply it to your face. Again, avoid the area around your eyes. Depending on your individual needs, daily use may be optimal, but you may also be fine with 2-3 times a week.
You can then continue with your routine as usual. The peeling can also be combined with other products without any problems. However, as described above, caution should be taken when using AHA and BHA in combination with the niacinamide serum and the retinal products.
Pay attention to sun protection
If you use a chemical peel, whether PHA, AHA or BHA, always apply sunscreen during the day. By removing the dead cells, young, fresh cells are revealed, which urgently need the extra protection from UV rays.
Once again, the important points are summarized:
- slowly get your skin used to it (initially 1-2x per week)
- Apply after cleansing
- let it move in
- just continue with further routine
- can be combined well with other products
- Application frequency as needed daily or 2-3x weekly
- Don't forget sun protection
- not suitable for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding
I hope I was able to introduce you to these wonderful products and show you which one is right for you and your skin.
Sources
3 Acne vulgaris - AMBOSS. (2020). Anvil. https://www.amboss.com/de/wissen/Acne_vulgaris
4 Psoriasis vulgaris - AMBOSS. (n.d.-a). Amboss. Retrieved on January 12, 2021, from https://www.amboss.com/de/wissen/Psoriasis_vulgaris
5 Please be patient! (2020, January 26). DAZ.online. https://www.deutsche-apotheker-zeitung.de/daz-az/2014/daz-21-2014/bitte-geduld